Voltage drop is one of those topics we often mention but seldom think about in depth. From a very basic standpoint we need to know whether or not the rated voltage is being delivered to the device or appliance while under full load, which is as simple as running the equipment and measuring the voltage at the equipment feed conductors. If the measured voltage is within the rated range while under load then we are in pretty good shape… but there is still more to consider.

The voltage drop across a wire can ONLY be measured under load, simply measuring the potential at the end of a circuit without it being under load tells you almost nothing because the circuit is open.

The voltage drop measured is equal to the percentage of the total circuit resistance being measured across.

In other words… if the total applied voltage at the main panel is 240V and you are measuring 216V at the condenser while it is running that means that 90% of the resistance in the circuit is in the condenser (216V) and 10% of the total circuit resistance in in the conductors (24V) leading to the condenser (which is way too high).

You will also find that voltage drop increases the higher the current on the circuit. This happens for two reasons –

  1. Higher running current is due to lower electrical resistance in the load. When the resistance in the load is lower the resistance of the load makes up a lower percentage of the total circuit resistance and the wiring makes up more it. NOTE: Some of you get confused and think that the resistance in a load increases as the current increases… but it doesn’t… just look at ohms law again. When amperage increases the electrical resistance must go down if the voltage remains constant.
  2. When most metals get hot their resistance increases. So as the wiring current increases it heats up and increases in resistance, further increasing the wires share of the voltage drop.

We care about voltage drop for two reasons –

  1. It can be be bad for our equipment resulting in poor performance and efficiency
  2. It can be an INDICATOR of other conditions that can lead to overheating and arcing which can be a safety hazard

This article includes a lot of references to the NEC (National Electrical Code) because it is the nationally adopted set of rules for high voltage electrical in the USA. The excerpts here are for training and commentary reference and should only be used by licensed professionals who have training in the entire code which can be found at the NFPA website. The NEC (NFPA) 70 is all about fire and shock prevention and 310.15(A)(3) sums up conductor design pretty nicely. I sum it up (further) as

Don’t install anything in a way that’s going to result in it getting hotter than it’s supposed to get 

So high voltage drop occurs because the amperage is higher than it supposed to be or the resistance in the circuit is higher than it should be (or both).

What is Acceptable Voltage Drop?

The NEC recommends no more than a 5% voltage drop from the main panel all the way to the appliance under load with 2% drop allowable on the “feeder” circuits and 3% on the “branch” circuits (NEC 210.19(A) informational note #4). This is only a recommendation for design so long as all the other rules regarding conductor (wire), over-current protection and connections are followed due to the fact that is in an “informational note” in the NEC rather than a code.

From a practical standpoint we really shouldn’t see more than a 5% voltage drop on a properly sized conductor when measured under load other than during motor inrush (locked rotor). It’s most critical that we remember that voltage drop measurements are only valid when UNDER LOAD. If the equipment isn’t running then there will be no voltage drop and the measurement becomes almost meaningless.

In practice there are four primary causes of objectionable voltage drop –

  • Undersized Conductors
  • Poor Connections (Terminations)
  • Higher Than Design Circuit Current
  • Long Conductors (Long Wire Length)

Let’s look at each one individually to see what we can do to diagnose, repair and prevent these issues.

Undersized Conductors

In HVAC we need to size the majority of our conductors (wires) according to NEC Table 310.15(B)(16) which is where we get rules of thumb about wire size, primarily by looking at basic copper conductors in the 60 degree Celsius category.

When conductors are undersized for the rated ampacity of the system the result will be an overheating conductor and voltage drop which is a dangerous issue. Many techs and electricians are’t aware that section 440 of the NEC allows air conditioning system wiring to be sized according to the MCA (Minimum circuit ampacity) listed on the equipment EVEN when the brakes or fuse is larger and sized according to the listed MOCP (Maximum Over-current Protection). No matter what we do, it is critical that we abide by 310.15(A)(3) and ensure that we do not install conductors in such a way that they will overheat whether that is due to the amperage, the ambient conditions they are exposed to or the number of conductors run in a conduit. Poor Connections Higher Than Design Current Long Conductors

Poor Connections

When wires are connected using wire nuts, lugs, splices etc… they should be made with the best possible possible contact with low resistance and compatible materials that won’t wear or corrode. If the connection is poor then the resistance at that point will increase resulting in heat at the point which can lead to more resistance and the issue becomes worse and worse. Poor connections not only cause voltage drop but they can also cause a safety hazard. All high voltage electrical connections and terminations should be made with NEC / UL approved materials and according to instructions. Common causes of poor connections are

  • Connecting too many wires under a lug
  • Using an unapproved connector
  • Connecting dissimilar metals together in an unapproved connector for that use (such as copper and aluminum)
  • Failing to tighten lugs or screws to the rated torque rating

Higher than Design Circuit Current

In some cases the wiring and connections are correct but the device itself is drawing above its rated current. This will lead to high voltage drop and should be corrected at the root cause in the system causing the high current.

Long Conductors

There are some interesting ramifications to long conductors with the first being that the NEC doesn’t really address it… at least not directly. Like we already mentioned NEC 210.19(A) does make suggestions to keep the total voltage to below 5% and this would include drop due to wire length. The reason voltage drop due to wire length isn’t as large of an issue is because it doesn’t cause wire overheating. If the wire is long but still the correct size it WILL have higher resistance which WILL result in greater voltage drop but since the resistance is spread across the entire wire it won’t get any hotter in one spot like a poor connection. The result will LOWER circuit amperage and possibly poor performance of the device but it won’t result in a dangerous condition in the conductor.

We are often responsible to upsize conductors to prevent voltage drop for the sake of the system but not because we are REQUIRED to do so. This means that when wire lengths are long we need to pay special attention to the under load voltage drop, especially in new construction environments.

— Bryan

Grounding is an area of many myths and legends in both the electrical and HVAC fields. This is a short article and we will briefly cover only a few common myths. For a more detailed explanation I advise subscribing to Mike Holt’s YouTube Channel HERE

Myth – Current Goes to Ground

Actually current (electrons) move according to a difference in charges/potential (Voltage). When a potential difference exists and a sufficient path exists there will be current. In a designed electrical system current is always returning to the source, the opposite side of a generator, transformer, battery, Inverter, alternator etc… current only goes to ground when an undesigned condition is present and ground (earth) can be a VERY POOR conductor at times. The only saving grace for the earth as a conductor is all of the parallel paths created with a ground rod because of all the surface area contact to earth.

Myth – To Be Safe, Add More Ground Rods

The ground can be an exceptionally poor conductor. The purpose of ground rods is to carry large spikes in current that comes down your electrical distribution lines away from the building. Adding more ground rods can actually EXPOSE the building to current from near ground strikes. Adding more rods isn’t always the solution and often does nothing useful.

Myth – Connecting Neutral and Ground Together In Multiple Places Is a Good Idea

Neutral and equipment ground should be connected in only one location at the main distribution panel to prevent the grounding conductors from carrying neutral current. If the equipment ground is carrying any current there is a problem.

Myth – Electricity (only) Takes The Path of Least Resistance 

If you have ever wired a parallel circuit you know that electrons travel down ALL available paths between to points of differing electrical charge.

Myth – Common, Ground and Neutral are the Same

Not even close. Common and neutral are terms used to describe the one side of a transformer. They are not grounded unless you ground them and when you do you are designating which side of the transformer will have an electrical potential that is equal with EQUIPMENT GROUND. The earth itself simply acts a really poor and erratic conductor between points of electrical potential that we designate and should not be confused with equipment ground.

Myth – Ground Rods Keep Us From Getting Shocked

Nope. Proper bonding connection between appliances, switches and outlets and equipment ground connected back to neutral at the main distribution panel in conjunction with properly sized circuit breakers and GFCI equipment keeps us safe. Grounds rods have little to nothing to do with protecting you from a ground fault.

Here is a great video on the topic and  you can find an article defining grounding and bonding terms HERE


— Bryan

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