Month: September 2020

Our good friend Trevor Matthews from Emerson Canada joins us to talk about compressors, why they fail, how to prevent failures and how to troubleshoot them.

 

Emerson Flow Chart – https://www.hvacrschool.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/2004ECT-126_NOTRUNNING.pdf

 

Compressor Installation Guide –

http://hvacrschool.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/Compressor-Installation.pdf

 

Emerson System Cleanup Bulletin –

https://climate.emerson.com/CPID/GRAPHICS/Types/AEB/ae1105.pdf

 

 

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I remember it like it was yesterday… It was my first day of work as a trainee at my first technician job, just a wet behind the ears kid fresh out of trade school.

It was a Monday morning and technicians and I were standing in the dusty warehouse surrounded by stacks and stacks of brand new condensing units drinking the nasty warehouse coffee…

and I was LOVING IT

Finally, I had made it, one of the guys, listening to the war stories and well-natured ribbing and getting a caffeine fix for the day.

One of the senior techs was telling a story of low suction pressure and he said “So I figured it has to be the wrong sized piston” and he stopped and looked over at me and said “you know what a piston is….. RIGHT”

It seemed like an eternity passed as the whole group stared at me, I mumbled “a piston sure” and gave a weak nod hoping that “LIAR” wasn’t emblazoned on my forehead for All to see.

The tech turned and finished his story and my mind raced….

Of course, I knew what a piston was in an ENGINE or even a reciprocating compressor but I had no clue that the little hunk of brass with a hole in it that we called a “fixed orifice” in school was called a piston.

Later I learned all there was to know about sizing and replacing pistons. The installers I worked with often forgot to put in the correct size.

In case you are like I was, a piston is a fixed orifice metering device used in systems for many years. They are especially in residential heat pumps and straight cool systems. Even now that TXVs and EEVs are becoming more popular you will still see pistons in many new Carrier models being used outside as the heat mode metering device.

Piston Facts

There are three common piston designs I see regularly and while different manufacturers may use them I will group them by the manufacturers I know them by.

Lennox / Rheem Type

The piston shown above is the Lennox / Rheem style. It is directional, meaning it can only be installed one way with the cone (tapered side) pointed at the evaporator and the other side pointed at the liquid line. This type uses seals toward the end of the cone to help prevent refrigerant bypass and it also uses an o-ring to seal the “chatleff” style housing.

Carrier Type

Carrier used to call their pistons “accurators” and maybe still do although I haven’t heard that term for years. These pistons can be installed in either direction but still use the same “chatleff” style housing as Lennox

Trane Type

The Trane style has a much smaller size and is directional. The Trane housings do not use o-rings.

Piston Size

The physical exterior dimensions of the piston must be the same as all the others for that brand/series otherwise it will not fit properly. It is only the internal bore diameter that changes.

Pistons are sized in decimals of an inch like a gas orifice, usually from the 40’s up to the low 100’s. When a piston is described as being a “65 piston” that means it is 0.065 of an inch and a “104” would be 0.104 of an inch.

Check Flow Operation

In a heat pump system, every metering device needs some method of bypassing the metering device when the refrigerant flows in the opposite direction. This is done in TXVs by means of an internal or external check valve but with a piston, the piston itself is allowed to slide in the housing allowing restricted flow in one direction and unrestricted flow in the other.

This is actually where a piston gets its name, because like a piston in an engine it is a cylinder within a cylinder that can slide back and forth.

Any carbon, wax or other solid material that gets into the piston housing can cause one of three undesired conditions

Piston Restriction in the Desired Mode

If something gets into or covers the orifice bored into the piston it can cause a restriction resulting in low evaporator pressure, low suction, high superheat and normal to high subcool. When a piston is restricted and the system is a heat pump with a liquid line filter/drier properly installed, we will often alternate the system into cool and heat and see if that will break free the contaminants and catch it in the line drier. Otherwise, the piston should be removed, inspected and cleaned or replaced and a new line drier installed.

Keep in mind that some systems have a screen built into the piston housing inlet that can also block up. Look for this once the piston housing is disassembled.

Piston Bypassing (Overfeeding)

If the piston fails to seat properly it can overfeed the evaporator in the same way it would if the system had a larger bore size than it should. This will result in high suction pressure, low superheat and low subcooling. In these cases, the piston should be removed and inspected for proper bore size and signs of contamination around the outside or near the seal surfaces of the piston and the housing.

Opposite Mode Piston Restriction 

In some cases, a heat pump piston may fail to fully unseat in the opposite mode. This will result in a pressure drop and an undesired restriction similar to a clogged liquid line filter drier.  In this case there will be a clear temperature drop across that piston when there should be little to none.

For example, if you are running a system in cooling and you notice frost starting to form on the liquid line side of the outdoor, heat mode piston housing, you can be sure it is restricting in the opposite direction. Sometimes this can be resolved by switching back and forth from heat to cool a few times but often it will require disassembly and inspection.

This condition is similar to what happens when an external TXV check valve fails.

In Closing

A piston is a simple little hunk of brass, it drives me nuts when a tech incompletes a call so that someone can “replace a failed piston”. A piston doesn’t just fail, if one does have an issue it’s either the wrong size or something got into it and got stuck in it or caused it to stop seating properly. Many of these issues lead back to improper vacuum, failing to flow nitrogen, getting copper shavings or sand in the system etc…

Every good residential tech should have a little plastic container with various brands and sizes of piston in it in case you find one that is the wrong size or worn down from improper seating. I may be a little late to the game here since pistons are a dying breed but they are simple enough that a return trip for a “failed piston” seems like a huge waste.

— Bryan

I hear the following phrase a lot

It’s the amperage that kills you not the voltage

While there is truth to the statement it is sort of like saying “it’s the size of the vehicle not the speed that kills you when it hits you”…

OK so that’s a pretty bad example, but hopefully, it gets the point across. BOTH of them are needed to cause injury or death and in the case of voltage and amperage the higher the voltage the higher the amperage.

This statement about amperage being the real danger as led to many people inaccurately believing it is the size of a panel or the gauge of wire that makes something more or less dangerous… which is 100% incorrect.

Let’s take a quick look at OHM’s law –

Amps = Volts ÷ Ohms 

The resistance (ohms) of the human body depends on a lot of factors including things like the moisture content of the skin, what other objects the current path is traveling through, what path the current is taking through the body etc…

While the resistances vary based on these factors Ohms law still holds true that when you increase the voltage you ALSO increase the amperage.

Take a look at this chart from the CDC

Effects of Electrical Current* on the Body [3]
CurrentReaction
1 milliampJust a faint tingle.
5 milliampsSlight shock felt. Disturbing, but not painful. Most people can “let go.” However, strong involuntary movements can cause injuries.
6-25 milliamps (women)†
9-30 milliamps (men)
Painful shock. Muscular control is lost. This is the range where “freezing currents” start. It may not be possible to “let go.”
50-150 milliampsExtremely painful shock, respiratory arrest (breathing stops), severe muscle contractions. Flexor muscles may cause holding on; extensor muscles may cause intense pushing away. Death is possible.
1,000-4,300 milliamps (1-4.3 amps)Ventricular fibrillation (heart pumping action not rhythmic) occurs. Muscles contract; nerve damage occurs. Death is likely.
10,000 milliamps (10 amps)Cardiac arrest and severe burns occur. Death is probable.

*Effects are for voltages less than about 600 volts. Higher voltages also cause severe burns.
†Differences in muscle and fat content affect the severity of shock.

Let’s say that a particular shock is traveling through a 20 KOhm (20,000 ohm) path in your body

At 120V this would produce a 6mA shock

At 240V it would be 12mA

At 480V it would be 24mA

It becomes clear pretty quick that higher voltage does lead to more dangerous shocks as does the resistance of the path.

High Resistance and Low Voltage = Safer

Low Resistance and High Voltage = Danger

This is why working around live electrical should only be done with insulated tools, proper PPE and in dry conditions. These all serve to keep the resistance up to reduce the likelihood of a fatal shock. The higher the voltage the more diligent you need to be.

Some people may bring up high voltage shocks from a taser or static electricity as proof that “voltage doesn’t kill”.

In these cases, the power supply is either limited, intermittent or instantaneous. This means that while the voltage is high it is only high for a very short period. Unfortunately in our profession, those sorts of quick high voltage discharges aren’t the big danger we face, most of the electrical work we do is on systems that will happily fry us to a crisp before the power supply cuts out.

A circuit breaker or fuse will never protect us because we draw in the milliamp range when we are being shocked as almost all fuses or breakers don’t trip or blow until much higher levels are reached.

Be safe around high voltage and keep your resistance high.

— Bryan

 

 

 

As HVAC/R techs we don’t do a lot of soldering generally unless you are in a shop that has embraced Stay Brite® 8 from Harris.

There are several aluminum repair products on the market that also use an indirect soldering type technique so this is is a general and generic overview of some best practices. As always, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for best results.

 

Prep the Work Area

When soldering you will want to get everything as clean as possible before you start. You can begin with brushes or Emory cloth to get the big stuff off then go to alcohol and a lint-free cloth at the end to get off any residue or silica particles. Just make sure any alcohol is completely evaporated before using a torch.

Another nice trick for tight work on aluminum coils is using a wire wheel on a Dremel to get the area clean. I had luck with this when repairing a microchannel coil.

 

 

Use Lower Heat Than Brazing

Often soldering is best done with an air-acetylene or MAPP gas torch rather than a typical oxygen rig especially when you have room to work. If you are working a tight space you may opt for a small oxy/acet tip like the one shown above but be VERY careful. The flame may be small and therefore put out less BTUs than a larger flame but it will still be a much hotter temperature than air-acetylene or MAPP.

Work Indirectly 

When working with solders or lower temperature base metals like aluminum it is generally best to heat around the repair or joining area with your rather than right on it. The goal is to allow the heat to gently conduct into the area ESPECIALLY when working with the hotter oxygen flame. With brazing, we can almost put the heat directly on the rod as we work and for most of these products, this won’t work at all.

Watch the Flux

Flux not only acts to keep oxides away from the work area, but it also gives us a visual indication of when the work area is at the right temperature to apply solder. If we underheat the work area the solder won’t flow int the joint and if we overheat the work area we will burn the flux and the solder won’t flow into the joint.

Another note on flux is we only want to apply it to the male end when joining and we don’t want to overuse flux and contaminate the system. Many fluxes are corrosive so wipe it all off one the joint cools to prevent leaks.

— Bryan

 

 

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